Bank By Nicholas James sits in the middle of the Penn Hill Avenue parade, one of those quietly assured Poole streets where the shops remain independent and the pavement tables fill first. It occupies a former bank building that has been restored rather than stripped out, so the name is quite literal and the room keeps the generous proportions of its earlier life.
The cooking
The food is modern British, spread across several menus instead of one that tries to cover everything. The main menu pairs comforting classics with more thoughtful plates, and lunch offers sandwiches, salads and lighter dishes for those with an hour to spare rather than an afternoon. Sundays are devoted to traditional roasts with all the trimmings, and Thursday evenings become a steak night. A separate children's menu makes it a place that genuinely works for a family meal rather than one that simply puts up with it.
As the menus follow the seasons, treat anything described here as an outline rather than a guarantee. Drinks get equal attention: wines from a wide range of regions, classic and signature cocktails, premium spirits, draught beer and Champagne. Allergen information is provided, but it's worth mentioning any requirements when booking.
The building
The conversion is what makes it. Exposed brick, soft lighting and contemporary art play against the building's original scale, and a single blossom tree holds the centre of the room. The bar runs through the dining space and out to the garden, so the venue changes pace easily over the course of a day: a long lunch, a family dinner, a weekend brunch, or simply a cocktail with no food involved.
The same flexibility applies to evenings. Supper clubs, DJ sessions and live music on Sundays are all part of the programme, so it pays to check what's on before picking a date, depending on whether you're after atmosphere or peace.
Location
You'll find it at 106 Penn Hill Avenue, BH14 9NA, in Penn Hill, the part of Poole that lies between the town centre and Westbourne. Branksome is the closest railway station, and buses stop on Penn Hill Avenue itself. There's no on-site parking, but a public car park sits directly opposite, sparing you most of the usual circling.
It slots easily into a longer afternoon in the area, and works well alongside the rest of our food and drink guide if you're planning a route rather than a single stop.
Practical details
Reserve ahead for weekend evenings and Sunday lunch, when tables are quickly taken. The venue has wheelchair access and an accessible toilet. Garden seating is available when the weather allows, and gift vouchers are sold through the website. Since menus and events change, check the restaurant's own pages for the current programme, opening hours and any seasonal changes before travelling.